Laufarija in Cerkno

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Slovenščina

EVENTS :: DOGODKI

The Cerkno region (Cerkljansko) spans the basin of the Cerknica River and its tributaries at the crossroads of the Idrija Hills, the Škofja Loka Hills, and the Julian Alps. The landscape is defined by steep slopes, narrow ravines, secluded mountain farms, and the central basin surrounding the town of Cerkno. Because of this natural seclusion, dictated by impassable gorges, the region preserved an authentic cultural identity for centuries, complete with a distinct dialect, rich oral traditions, and archaic carnival customs that vanished in other parts of Slovenia under the pressure of modernization.

Historical Evolution and Post-1955 Revival

The roots of the custom date back to pre-Christian spring rituals celebrating fertility, agrarian cults, and the veneration of ancestors. Written records trace the custom to the 19th century, when Laufarija was an indispensable element of winter life among local youth fraternities.

Following World War I, when the Treaty of Rapallo assigned the region to the Kingdom of Italy, the fascist authorities suppressed the custom as part of a campaign banning the public use of the Slovenian language and cultural gatherings. After World War II, the tradition was on the brink of extinction. In 1955, a dedicated group of locals, guided by ethnologist Dr. Niko Kuret and academic painter Boris Kobal, began gathering oral accounts from elderly residents. Based on these precise descriptions, they carved new wooden masks, reconstructed authentic costumes from natural materials, and restored the full dramatic ritual. Today, the Cerkno Laufarija Society (Društvo Laufarija Cerkno) acts as the guardian of this living masterpiece of state significance, registered on the national list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

The Distinctive Character of the Cerkno Larfe

A defining hallmark of Laufarija is its larfe—masks carved from linden wood, distinguished from most other Slovenian carnival masks by their individual characterizations and anatomical realism. Except for Ta star (The Old Man), who wears a half-mask and is the only figure permitted to speak, all characters observe a vow of strict silence. Hand-painted with meticulous precision, the masks portray human emotions, archaic demons, forces of nature, and satirical village archetypes.

The Laufar Family and Detailed Character Breakdown

The Laufar family comprises 25 characters wearing 26 carved masks (Ta koševa features two distinct facial masks on one performer):

  • Core Characters:

    • Pust (Carnival): The central culprit personifying winter, laziness, sins, and all misdeeds committed in the community over the past year. He is draped in fresh forest moss (costume weighing upwards of 30 kg), wears horns on his head, and carries an uprooted spruce sapling.

    • Ta smrekov (The Spruce Man): Pust's brother, covered in fresh evergreen boughs, symbolizing the winter woodland.

    • Ta star and Ta stara (The Old Man and The Old Woman): The heads of the Laufar household, dressed in 19th-century Cerkno festive peasant attire. Ta star directs the proceedings and is the sole speaking character.

  • Archaic Nature and Ancestral Spirits:

    • Ta bršljanov and Marjetica (The Ivy Man and The Daisy): Ivy vines and daisy blossoms woven onto green garments herald the end of winter, vegetative growth, and the rebirth of nature.

    • Ta ličnat (The Bast Man): Draped in a cloak of linden bast and holding a shepherd's crook, representing an alpine herdsman.

    • Ta terjast (The Tow-Cloth Man): A grotesque mask with a prominent jaw and protruding teeth, clothed in coarse linen-weaving waste (terje); symbolizes ancestral spirits.

    • Ta mahov (The Moss Man): Clad in woodland moss, embodying the spirit of the forest.

    • Ta kožuhov (The Fur Coat Man): Dressed in animal pelts, carrying a backpack with a massive cowbell (burovž) that clangs continuously to dispel malicious spirits.

    • Lamant: A wild figure in goatskins wielding a three-pronged wooden pitchfork and heavy rope, responsible for capturing and restraining Pust.

  • Social, Occupational, and Satirical Village Archetypes:

    • The Judge, Prosecutor, and Defense Counsel: The tribunal directing the trial in old-fashioned bourgeois dress.

    • Gospod and Gospa (The Gentleman and The Lady): Dignified representatives of the wealthy urban middle class.

    • Ta žleht (The Malicious One): A limping mischief-maker with a barrel organ and a pack laden with pig hooves.

    • Ta loparjev (The Peel Carrier): A baker holding a peel inscribed with the date and the words "Death to Pust".

    • Ta perjev (The Feathered Man): A village eccentric covered in thousands of chicken feathers.

    • Ta koševa (The Basket Carrier): A single performer portraying an old woman carrying her drunken husband in a backpack basket.

    • Ta divji (The Wild Man), Ta pijan (The Drunkard), Ta pijana (The Drunken Woman), Cunkler (The Scissor Grinder), The Courier, and Accordion Players.

The Carnival Cycle and Ritual Performance

Laufarija is not merely a single-day carnival parade, but a structured multi-week ritual drama:

  1. The Gradual Gathering (From New Year to Carnival Sunday): On the first Sunday after New Year's Day, the initial character (Ta prvi) appears in the streets of Cerkno. Each subsequent Sunday after church service, another character emerges from the forest hideout until the entire group is assembled.

  2. Carnival Sunday (The Indictment and Capture): The full procession marches to the central square. The Judge reads the formal indictment (kalamuon) in the local Cerkno dialect, reciting every fault, blunder, and civic mishap committed by the townsfolk over the past year. Pust attempts to flee but is caught and bound by Lamant.

  3. Shrove Tuesday (The Verdict and Execution): The tribunal convenes once more on the main square in the afternoon. Following a final reading of the kalamuon, the Judge pronounces the death sentence. The executioner lays Pust upon the ground and symbolically strikes him down with a single blow from a large wooden club (bot).

The rite concludes with ritual lamentation, funeral melodies played on the accordion, and a celebratory dance of all Laufarji—formally burying winter, cleansing communal grievances, and welcoming the fertility of spring.

Preparation of carnival masks in Laufarkomanda

Preparation of carnival masks in the "Laufarkomanda". "Ta bršljanov" (The Ivy Man) is named after the ivy used to craft his costume. He has a cheerful and smiling face and represents the complete opposite of Pust, symbolizing spring and all the goodness it brings.

Marjetica

"Marjetica" (The Daisy), like "Ta bršljanov", represents spring. She joined the Laufarji group in 1968. Her green dress is stitched with daisy motifs.

Lamant

Lamant is dressed in goatskins and carries a wooden three-pronged pitchfork used to frighten children. He is girded with a rope, which the Laufarji use on Carnival Sunday to tie up Pust so he cannot escape before Tuesday.

Ta loparjev

"Ta loparjev" (The Peel Carrier) represents a baker craftsman who holds a baker's peel in his hands. Written on the peel is the inscription "DEATH TO PUST" along with the current carnival date.

Ta žleht

"Ta žleht" (The Malicious One) represents a spiteful, wicked character with squinting eyes and twisted lips. On his back, he carries a backpack hung with pig hooves, ears, or tails. He limps and leans on a stick used to chase children away. He also plays a barrel organ.

Ta ličnat and Ta divji

"Ta ličnat" (The Bast Man) represents a shepherd from the surrounding mountain pastures; he is wrapped in a shepherd's cloak made of linden bast (bast – the inner bark layer beneath the tree trunk bark), wears wooden clogs, and holds a shepherd's crook. His wooden mask displays the tanned face of a handsome and sturdy man.

"Ta divji" (The Wild Man) is a newer mask character. His mask has a terrifying yet frightened expression. He is afraid of everything around him, especially people, which is why he always walks at the very end of the procession. He has disheveled long hair and is dressed in animal skins, as he is said to have come from the forest to join the Laufarji.

Ta terjast

»Ta terjast« (The Tow-Cloth Man) belongs to the group of archaic masks originating from pagan times. These characters represent the spirits of deceased ancestors. His face is grotesque, featuring a large nose and a prominent jaw with protruding large white teeth. His suit and headwear are made from terje (tow), coarse fiber remnants left over from weaving linen.

Accordion players

Accordion players

Ta star and Ta stara

"Ta star in ta stara" (The Old Man and The Old Woman) from the archaic mask group are a couple and always walk together in the procession. The Old Man is the master of the Laufar family. He is dressed in an old traditional Cerkno holiday peasant costume. He wears a wide-brimmed hat, leans on a walking stick, and has the expression of a good-natured old man who is still full of vigor. He is the only Laufar character permitted to speak.

Ta koševa

"Ta koševa" (The Basket Carrier) is a character that also appears in other Slovenian carnival groups and belongs to the archaic mask category. The Laufarji first introduced this character in 1958, initially using wooden masks worn by the drunkard characters the year prior, and around 1960 new masks were made specifically for this role. The costume is worn by a single person but depicts two figures: an old woman carrying her drunken husband in a backpack basket. The woman's mask expresses indignation and exertion from carrying her load, while the drunkard wobbles and laughs at her. The woman's mask is not hollowed out for wearing on the face, but is carried in the performer's hands.

In front of the Cerkno Museum

In front of the Cerkno Museum

Gospod and Gospa

"Gospod and Gospa" (The Gentleman and The Lady), representing the bourgeois upper class of Cerkno.

Ta perjev

"Ta perjev" (The Feathered Man / Ta kurjev). This mask portrays a local character named Kurnški Janez, who was known as a village eccentric. His entire costume and headgear are covered in chicken feathers. It belongs to the newer characters, having been introduced to the Laufarji in 1966.

Ta kožuhov

"Ta kožuhov" (The Fur Coat Man) represents a shepherd or farmer from the Cerkno surroundings. The mask features a good-natured, sun-tanned face of dark red color with a large nose and thick lips. On his back he carries a basket containing a burovž—a large cowbell that clangs constantly during the procession, creating loud noise. During the carolling rounds, he collects gifts in his basket.

In front of Laufarkomanda

In front of the Laufarkomanda

Arrival of Laufarji in the center of Cerkno

Arrival of the Laufarji in the center of Cerkno

Cerkno

Cerkno

Procession of Laufarji in the center of Cerkno

Procession of the Laufarji in the center of Cerkno

Laufarji

The Laufarji

Main venue of the Laufarija

Main venue of the Laufarija - the stage with the judges' box for the trial of Pust.

Pust and his brother Ta smrekov

Pust and his brother "Ta smrekov" (The Spruce Man).

Cerkno - town center

Cerkno - town center.

Accordion players

Accordion players

Trial of Pust

Trial of Pust (audio backdrop: 15-minute explanation of the Laufarija characters)